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Peak Mountain 3

Ten Karat Gold

FA John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, June 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible.

P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2) The Window Pane Pitch. A crux almost directly off the belay as you traverse right to a small stance and the first of two bolts on this runout pitch.

Clip the bolt and work your way upwards making a 5.9 move way out from your last bolt. Clip the second bolt and your home free - a bit of slab paddling gains the top.

Descend via Bye Gully.

Location

This is the right-most line on the slab proper and starts near a large oak tree below a ledge.

Easy scrambling (5.0) up a right-slanting ramp leads to a large belay ledge and the start of the climb.

Protection

All bolted, gear to 3 inches for last belay