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Peak Mountain 3

Optimus Prime

FA Tim McGivern and Luis Gaviria
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sit start at the base of the left-trending (almost horizontal) crack. Move out left following the crack for a few moves until you can gain the good hold under the bulge. From there, move up to a good jug. Move up to marginal holds, and trend left across the dicey slab to gain a good rail and, soon after, the lip at the top.

This is the prominent line up the feature. A toprope anchor can be built with 3-4 cams ranging from 0.5 to 1.0 and a 10' piece of looped webbing.

The FA was done with a TR. This would be a highball V4 boulder problem with a crux about 12' up before a dicey slab! Go get it!

If you are tall enough, there is an early escape out right once you gain the upper slab.

Location

Find the Substation Bluff, then find the nicest line that goes up it. That's it.

Protection

Lots of pads or a TR.


Routes in Substation Bluff


  1. 1
    Optimus Prime
    5.11d
    Bouldering · Tr