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Peak Mountain 3

Seemed Like a Crack

FA T. Bubb, M.Ruocco, 10/06
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great little route on good rock and good moves. The name is derived from the difference between initial appearances and reality- the "crack" I thought I saw was not much of one.

Climb up onto the wall below and right of the 3 small trees growing beside each other about 60 feet up. Climb into a short, shallow, left-facing corner (with a seam, not a crack), place a 2" cam at the base of it, and execute the crux sequence up it (5.8). Climb up and left, traversing above each tree to reach a clean face and crack system on the left side of a great face. Climb this past a runout (5.4) to a large ledge, and belay off of a huge stone dolmen behind the edge on a cordalette. 3" gear in a crack in the ledge can back this up if desired.

To descend, scramble from the ledge to the summit, and descend the standard route, or walk off North from this ledge.

Location

On the West end of the South Face, not far from the SW arete, there are 3 trees in almost parallel position 1/2 way up the face. Below and right of these, a face goes to a short, shallow corner, then the route goes up, left above all 3 trees, and up the clean face to a ledge with larger trees a few feet below the summit.

Protection

A standard light rack and a solid head, as the easy section (5.4) does not protect well.