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Peak Mountain 3

Vagionia

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Description

For route route-name flaggers searching for offence in names based on their containing of the letters V-A-G, please note this is actually named after "Vagionia Bay" on the Island of Poros in Greece (where I met my wife)...Deep, sharp, or in-cut buckets can be really tricky to get to. Crab-pinch the bottleneck in a horizontal then transition to undercling for the first big reach.Fingernails help balance the final move where good feet need to be on tippie-toes to reach the final bucket (5'11") or friction and a terrible edge drive toward a matched crimp and dyno for shorter climbers.It goes without the crack on the right (Dirty Pirate Corner) and ends as a top-out about 4 feet left of the big tree above Dirty Pirate Corner. Make use of everything on the left and it will come together. I am afraid I may have originally sandbagged it at 5.5 as I didn't want the humiliation of giving it a harder grade than is true based on my challenge with it; I am moving it to 5.7 after a few laps today (and a consensus of 3 since) and totally open to change. Please feel free to ping me with feedback and grade suggestions if you feel strongly.Update. Moving to 5.8 Sep 2020 after trusted feedback.

Location

Left of the dirty corner / crack

Protection

 (Aug 6, 2020)