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Peak Mountain 3

Parking Lot Corners

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Description

I've always looked at this climb as a potential free climb, but from the ground it appeared the anchor would consist of one drilled pin. Then I noticed on 10/3/08 that someone added a new 2-bolt anchor (3/8" bolts, I think - not the huge beefy ones), and I had to finally climb it.

The route climbs two shallow, right-facing corners to the top of a pillar, linked by an easy face move protected with a drilled pin. The crux is low and is steep and sandy, but it protects well. The upper corner is easier. Either way, the climbing is fun, but certainly has some desert adventure to it, as it is very sandy, and the rock is soft, which makes you wonder if your protection wouldn't just rip right out if you were to fall.

I hope to see more climbers getting on this. Thanks to whomever added the new bolts at the anchor.

Location

This route ascends thin right-facing corners on the East face of North Gateway Rock just south of the North parking lot.

Protection

Red & Yellow C3 Camalots, #0.4-2 Camalots, 1 drilled pin. 2 new bolts, 1 drilled pin anchor.