- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route climbs the highest up the Wedge, and is the easiest of the few that actually top out the formation.
Approach is via
Arching Out
or the Ramp (into Arching Out).
It is the first route right of
Buffalo Brothers
.
See also this
photo.
Pitch 1. Optional 1/2" cam, sling tie off, bolts. 140' 5.8. Off the two bolt belay climb back into the corner. Twenty feet above the belay where the corner becomes a roof, look for the bolt out left that draws you onto the Blue Sky Wall. Tie off a chicken head above, and follow bolts the rest of the way to a rap anchor at 90', 5.6 to here. The route continues out right into steeper 5.8 terrain with a nice flat ledge about 50' above the 90' anchor. Link the 90' and 50' sections to take advantage of the nice ledge. Two bolt belay on the ledge.
Pitch 2. Bolts only, 130'. 5.5. Off the ledge, bolts out right lead past a bolted rap anchor about 40' above the ledge. Skip these and continue to the bolted anchor atop the formation.
Descent: Rap the route. During the second rap skip the ledge anchor and continue to the station that was 90' up the first pitch.
OR
Walk off to the west down the West Ledges descent.
Protection
Optional 1/2" cam off the belay, and a sling to tie off a knob inbetween the first and second bolt, otherwise all bolted.
Routes in Blue Sky Wall
- 6Closer to the Sun5.8Sport · Trad