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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown 4

FA Scarpelli?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first section (the right-facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is surprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove - it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here, there is a big ledge where you can pass through to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping, right-facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. It has a nice 360 degree views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, etc.... There is a large chockstone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. A 60 meter is recommended, but I believe a 50m will make it.

Location

The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between

Unknown 2

and

Unknown 3

, or very near

The Rose

.

Protection

Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.