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Peak Mountain 3

Whim

FA Matt Donohoe & Pat Stewart, 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Excellent OW and squeeze moves in moderate quality rock. A must do pitch for the semi-obscure / filth lover!

Ascend an ever widening, straight in, fist crack similar in appearance to Trail By Fire. Enter the squeeze and wiggle your way up into a rooflet. Reach over the rooflet for a dirty yet secure hand jam. Reach a ledge and take your pick of cracks to the top, one of which requires and extra #4 camalot and the other does not. Give yourself a pat on the back for giving this one a go and reaching the top.

There are three options for descent: 1) Walk to the right and rap with one rope from the Said and Done anchor. 2) Walk off to the left over the top of Tips. 3) Rap with one rope from a slung tree just left of the top out (recommended).

Location

This climb is on the left side of the cliff. One hundred feet to the right of Tips. Look for a fist crack that turns into a squeeze with a small rooflet at the top.

Protection

Pro to 4.5" Extra 3.5 - 4.5