We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Through the Never

FA James and Franziska Garrett 4-27-07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route provides a fun diversion from the climbing at Ibex. The rock is mostly very good and the route protects well.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack system using a variety of techniques up to a thin section, clip a bolt and a piton and scamper to a belay alcove with 1 bolt. A second bolt is above the belay a short distance. Otherwise the 1 bolt can be backed up with small cams. 5.9 25m.

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and climb up the dihedral until it seems blockier and loose. You can now Belay on a fairly nice ledge with a new bolt and ring pin. 5.8, 20m.

Pitch #3: A few glue in bolts have been added here to enable avoiding the rubble in the dihedral and climb more solid rock to the left. This allows a much more exciting and better protected finish on solid rock. After the last bolt, scramble the short distance to the top and find a two bolt belay on a flat rock. 5.7/8, 20m.

Descent: Walk off to the north and down through a break in the cliffband.

Location

Located on the southwest face of the Steamboat very near the southern prow. It receives morning shade and then all day sun. Look for a small cave with some sort of animals nest in it at the base of a crack system. Climb the crack system for two to three pitches.

Protection

Single rack to #3 Camalot, Doubles .4" to .75" is nice.


Routes in Steamboat Pass


  1. 2
    Through the Never
    5.9
    Trad