Face the Sphynx

Face the Sphynx is a challenging and burly clean aid route up a huge crack system in the center of the Sphinx that can be led on purely cams and nuts. This could have been a classic free line if it weren't for the 5.13 (?) overhanging crack at the start. As is though, this is an interesting and sustained aid adventure.

Pitch one is the "classic line in disguise". This is as good as C1 aid gets with multiple overhanging sections, absolutely massive features, and a continuous crack system from bottom to top requiring nothing more than a standard rack.

Pitch two is less good. A short overhung wall with huge Flatiron-style grooves stands between you and the top. Precisely placed large pieces will bring you to the top of this rather scary section.

We established "

Sphynx Not

" to allow parties to climb pitch one and avoid pitch two. You can rap off a tree back to the starting ledge or follow "

I Sphynx There's a Way

" up to the upper ledge.

Approach: either climb the 5.3ish lower apron or go around it on the left.

P1. 5.6 C1+. Start up the gully on the left, but then take a hard right at the base of the wall. Meander through the giant overhung flake system to the severely overhung, undercling crack. Aid your way up the overhang, and pull around the corner. Take care to route your rope outside (left) of the crack or it will get stuck! Work your way up the massive flake/crack system, and then build an anchor on the ledge.

P2. 5.6 C2 R. Head up from the belay do a 5.6 undercling slab move. Climb up onto the right side of the blocks, and prepare yourself for some scary aid moves. A series of strange and poor large cam placements move you directly up the wall until you can reach the smaller cracks behind the large roof. Easy moves lead to the ledge and a large tree to belay from. A #5 Camalot was critical for us here. You'll also need another #5 or larger.

In terms of free-climbing, the opening overhang is 30° and would be a brutal undercling on small feet. After that, the route mellows into a moderate chimney. For P2, there are two options, and they're both bad. On the left, one can pull a ~5.11 roof, using sketchy flakes as pro. The flakes will crush both you and your belayer if they go. There's also a bird's nest over there, so maybe this isn't the best way. The alternative is to climb the aid line directly. This is probably 5.10-5.11, but the opening moves will be protected by sketchy big pro.

P1. A standard rack to 3".

P2. A standard rack to 6" (though you could place up to 8" probably).

The second can follow on aiders, there is no need for rope ascending.