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Peak Mountain 3

Dust to Dusk

FA Jay Smith, Jo Bentley, 1988.
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Description

This route is an extension of Jarni Zvrat-Ky -- though it would be more accurate to say that Jarni-Zvrat-Ky is a shortening of Dust to Dusk, as this route went in first.  Either way, climb Jarni-Zvrat-Ky to its anchor and then exit the alcove to the right.  This is the crux and requires (for me, at least) wild stemming while reaching over to a seemingly blank face which houses a thin hands splitter.  Once established in the splitter, progress upwards on sometimes friable rock for 40-50 feet to the anchor.

The move out of the alcove is wild, and the crack above is nice and steep.  With more ascents the rock on the upper section might clean up, but it seems that most parties stop at the first anchor.

Location

Start by climbing Jarni-Zvrat-Ky, which is 20 or so feet left of Binou's Crack.

Protection

A rack that works well for me (camalot sizes) is: purple TCU (1), 0.4 (2), 0.5 (3), 0.75 (5), 1 (5), 2 (1), 3 (1), and 5 alpine draws.