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Peak Mountain 3

Grand Unified Theory a.k.a. GUT

FA Matt Samet, Derek Peavey
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Description

Start on an easy runout. There are two options: the left crack is slightly easier but capped with a pile of guano. The right is still easy enough to runout, but both can optionally be protected by a finger-sized cam. The easy runout leads up to the intimidating roof. Fire through the roof on a mix of jamming, sidepulls, and underclings doing whatever you can to keep your feet from slipping. As the route name suggests, this section is going to require some gut. Once you pull the roof, a few more fun moves lead to the last bolt, then there is a little more easy runout to the anchor.

NOTE: this route is kind of a pain to clean but even more of a pain to toprope. If it ends up getting some traffic, it would be a good candidate for a couple perma-draws.

Location

Look for the obvious bolted roof with black hangers on the right side of the crag.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with lowering biners. The bolts can be supplemented by a finger-sized cam to protect the easy runout getting to the first bolt. The first bolt should probably have a long draw to reduce drag and the third an 18cm draw, since a shorter draw forces the rope into a crack.

NOTE: this route is also entirely protectable as a trad climb. I haven't done it yet, but I intend to at some point.


Routes in Lisa Randall Wall