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Peak Mountain 3

Palsy

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Description

The direct start to Palsy ascends the off-fingers crack on the face. This section climbs really well and has decent, but fiddly gear, with the first piece being a bit off the deck. The crux also happens to be fairly low, and in combination with some funky gear, has been the scene of numerous groundfalls. It doesn't warrant an R rating, but it is heads up at the very least.

Once past the crux, mantle onto a sloping ledge, then head up the killer right-facing corner. You can easily avoid the 5.10 portion by walking around to the right onto the ledge that the dihedral starts from.

Protection

Less than an inch for the lower 5.10 crack, then up to 3 inches for the longer 5.9 crack. There are 2 bolts with chains atop the rock.