- Edit (TBD)
Description
To find this route, follow directions to the 2150 Wall (brief directions can be found in the description for the route "Serious Power Outage". Primal Scream is about 100 feet left of the 2150 wall. A 10 foot tall detached flake/pillar marks the base of this route.
As one of the few 5.9s in this neck of the woods, this route sees a decent amount of traffic. Primal Scream is one of those routes that isn't great, but isn't bad. There are actually a couple moves on it that are interesting (and a bit unsettling for some reason). Just kind of awkward through the crux. This route is a good one to really concentrate on pulling youself into the wall with your toes and hips. It is also good for warming up a bit before jumping on the 2150 wall routes.
At the pillar mentioned above, proceed upwards by chimney/stem/liebacking either side of the pillar and mantel on top. If I remember right, there is a bolt in the chimney that appears and reappears as the years go by, but the climbing is very easy through this section. Gingerly start moving up and slightly right. Clip a few bolts on the way up (it will be very tempting to step back to your right onto a ramp). A few balancy barn door instigating moves and a slap around the left side of the arete/flake will get you through the dificulties. A couple of fun highsteps onto nice ledges and you will be at the anchor in no time.
Protection
Book says 4 bolts and anchors, but for some reason I want to say that it is 5 bolts and anchors (?).
Routes in 10. 2150 Wall
- 3Primal Scream5.9+Sport