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Peak Mountain 3

The Kraken

FA Rocco Bocchicchio
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Description

One of the classic highballs of Joe's.

The climb is two distinct sections. With a substantial rest in between. Stand start on crimps.

The first 15ft is the technical crux with a V4 move to get into a pocket. After this, you get a great handholds of the rest where you can shake out and eye the holds to the top.

The second 15ft is probably in the V2-V3 range, but feels a lot hard because you are so far off the ground. Two less than ideal pockets will get you up to a good rail and pocket from which you can feel for the top out holds.

You can downclimb off the back left end.

Location

Hike a ways up the trail head. Follow the cairns until you get to the large prominent face that is split by a large shelf. The bottom half will be brown, the top half will be black. This is the Kraken.

Protection

You are probably going to want all the pads you can get your hands on for this one. It doesn't get much taller than this without bolts.