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Peak Mountain 3

Watch Out, Grandpa

FA John Burcham, Seth Dyer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Climb up & right past 5 bolts to obvious crack, watching for serious rope drag if not careful. Up crack bulge (10+ crux) to awesome hands to final steep boulder move. Belay at bolted rap station on comfy ledge. 100' P2: Up short, easy chimney (5.7 no gear) to another big ledge and belay bolts. 40' P3: Stem, squirm, & wrangle up awesome O/W (5.10-) to roof moves and end of route on pillar top. 50'. Scramble up to summit and great (it's Sedona!) views.

DESCENT: Two 100 ft. rappels on chain anchors

Location

Follow the Boynton Canyon trail for 15 minutes. Route is on the north side of first buttress to extend down toward the trail (on the right), 200 yds up hill on easy scramble. Very visible from main trail! Look for obvious bolt line (well camoed) leading to crack system. (Route is well after Kachina Woman (Bandito Spire) and well before Sundeck and Sinagua Spires). See Bloom/Wolfe guidebook.

Protection

Stoppers, doubles from .3 to 4", 1 - 5", and optional 6" piece. A few long runners to avoid rope drag on first pitch.


Routes in Grandpa Buttress


  1. 1
    Watch Out, Grandpa
    5.10+
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