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Peak Mountain 3

Lock n' Load

5.10b
sport
FA Brenden Sullivan, Oren Cowlishaw, Tanner Hall, Alisha Lynn
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route took an entire week in the making, seven drill bits, over fifty bolts, twelve batteries, five long approaches, some blood, some sweat, and perhaps a few tears haha tears of joy that is.  And thanks to a couple friends who stuck around for the first ascent, we had some help hauling a lot of the gear in and out. No joke, "The hardest place to bolt in Utah is Maple Canyon." - Jeff Baldwin. Some of these quartzite cobbles are so hard that an entire battery and/or drill bit could be wasted on a single hole! The crux is short but the climb it self is just as classic as the neighboring routes. Although the rock here is generally sound, this route is quite new so expect some loose rock, wear a helmet, and enjoy one of the tallest or possibly the tallest route in Maple Canyon.

Pitch One: 5.7

  • Avoid belaying directly in the chimney. Climb the prow that starts vertical but eventually mellows out onto "dinosaur egg" cobbles. 7 bolts, 85'

Pitch Two: 5.10b

  • Crux of the route is just off the belay pulling the lip of a small roof which leads to a "bulletproof" feel good slab ending at a chock-stone belay stance at the top of the chimney. 13 bolts, 100'

Pitch Three: 5.8

  • Belay from the chock-stone or utilize the bomber first bolt equipped with a link to get your party onto the big ledge. As for the pitch, climb the headwall up and left passing by a huge cobble, a few nice pockets, and a "Honeybucket" jug. 6 bolts, 60'

Pitch Four: 5.9

  • This pitch was bolted on lead during the first ascent. Again, climb leftward passing over several large cobbles, and keep left, then up and romp over a few ledges to the main summit. 9 bolts, 95'

Pitch Five: 5.0

  • For a true summit, clip two bolts for the "photo-opp" and lower back down. Follower can clean, thread the quick-link, and lower off or simply use caution and climb back down. 2 bolts, 25'

Decent:

Make four rappels back down the route with a 60m rope. Final rappel station is independent from the route - to the right, back in the chimney. Rapping Slamfire is NOT recomended. Rappelling back down SLAMFIRE would create TREMENDOUS ROPE DRAG and the rope would be virtually IMPOSSIBLE to pull free.

Location

This route starts 30' left of "Dryfire" on the left side of a deep chimney.

Routes in The Armory