North Arete

Fantastic route! 1st 2 pitches are 5.6/5.7 knife edge ridge traversing, then 2 more pitches on the headwall that involve good cracks, chimneys and steep bulges. There are a few hard crux moves that felt very full value for 5.8. The cruxes are steep, roof-like bulge moves (think 1970  5.8,5.9) and hard chimneys in the squeeze size and bigger.

Start from near Horn Col. (11,280), Scramble south up class 2,3 to a big boulder on the ridge filled with white and pink quartz. Rope up here and start the 2 pitches of knife edge ridge traverse.

No bolts, build your own anchors. Standard alpine rack, few doubles in the hand and small range. Lots of alpine draws. 60m rope.