Lower Exum Ridge

Fairly Large formation between Pinpoint Pinnacle and Loeber's Leap

Finding the route can be a little tricky if you've never been up there before. From the Lower Saddle head north toward the Grand but instead of going up the ridge traverse down along the east side of the saddle. Continue scrambling east and keep an eye out for a black band of rock that runs east to west and is where the route starts from.  Follow the bottom of the black band over a small saddle that is neatly divided into two colored rock sections.  Descent slightly, then ~30 past the low point of the black band, look for a 4th class ramp that goes BACK TO THE LEFT (south).  Follow that ramp several hundred feet to the base of the first pitch.

The first pitch is a large chimney (or face to the right of the chimney, recommended) which is visible from the saddle and requires some scrambling or easy climbing to get to.

Descend the Owen Spalding route to the Upper Saddle and don't drop down the first gully that leads southeast. Instead go farther west and look for some climbers trails that work their way down to the Lower Saddle

I used a small selection of cams from a green Alien to a #3 Camalot and about 10 nuts of various sizes and felt that was adequate. There are several pins on pitch five and a few rap anchors on the route in different locations.