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Peak Mountain 3

The Tusk

FA Newman, E.C. Joe (1976)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

As of 2004, this was among the only climbs free of loose rock. It is also perhaps the best crack climb on the formation.

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south side of the dome. Traverses up and right and turn the corner of a blunt arete (5.6). Climb a finger & hand crack left of a pine tree (5.7). At a horizontal break, move left and climb a steep fist crack to a sloping ledge (5.7/5.8 and FUN). Belay takes small stoppers & TCUs. Rappel the gully to your starting point from slings around a chockstone. The gully itself can be downclimbed at awkward but easy class 5.

Adventurous climbers may wish to continue up one of three short but sweet fingertips cracks (5.10+). Rappel from slings.

Location

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south/southwest side of the dome (immediately around the corner to the right of Elephantiasis). On the left hand side is a dihedral/chimney that is a fun alternate start to Elephantiasis (5.8). On the right-hand wall is the start of the Tusk.

Protection

1/2" to 3.5"

Small nuts & TCUs for belay


Routes in Elephant Knob


  1. 1
    The Tusk
    5.7+
    Trad