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Peak Mountain 3

Mizzenmast

FA FKA: Dakota Walz, Collin Turbert, Chase Martin, Aug. 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mizzenmast is an amazing route sporting mostly bullet rock up the main face of the West Tower - the highest feature of the Ship's Prow, located the farthest away from Chasm Lake.

The final crux pitch is a sustained, low angle, finger crack that gets more and more exposed the closer you get to the summit. This has been reported as an FKA due to how obvious the line is when descending The Loft. That said, I couldn't find any history or sign of a previous ascent.

P1.

5.7, 180ft

For the most part, this shares the start of

Scots on the Rocks

. Aim for the hand crack up high, and belay on the nice ledge.

P2.

5.6, 20ft

Move the belay up to the left side of the buttress on a mega ledge. This can be linked with P1 with rope drag.

P3.

5.9, 70ft

Start just left of the chimney between the two buttresses, and climb up the clean, blank face connected by ledges and great thin flakes. Belay on a large ledge.

P4.

5.10a, 100ft

Climb up a clean, blank dihedral before launching into the right-angling roof. This section is easier than it looks, but the gear is tricky. Don't forget to bring the smallest cams! Eventually bust out to the face on more stellar rock, and belay at another mega-ledge right of the prominent buttress.

P5.

5.10b, 150ft

Traverse left across a catwalk ledge to a huge, balancing flake. Climb up its left side, and dance up some face moves to a small roof. Pull the roof, and enjoy the wonderfully sustained, splitter finger crack that drives up the amazing headwall of the buttress. Other than a pod or two, the crack remains 0.2-0.3 size for about 50 feet of bliss. Belay on the summit.

Protection

Singles 00, 0.1, & #3

Doubles 0.2-#2

Triple 0.2-0.3 (optional)

Nuts

Draws

60m rope