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Peak Mountain 3

The Middle Finger

FA John Thomas, August 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The largest of the 3 spires in the notch above the carmack glacier. The first 40 ft is 5 easy and the last 20 ft is 5.6. The rock is a little dirty, but not chossy by southeast standards. Glacier travel skills are a must as there were snow covered crevasses to get to the spires.

Location

The notch located to the south east of the carmack glacier.

Protection

Nuts should be fine for the spire. A couple 15 ft pieces of webbing and rap rings for natural anchors To get to it crampons, ice axe or tools, a snow anchor might come in handy, although we didn't have one. We weren't planning on climbing it and only had 4 slings and just slung some natural features.


Routes in Carmack Spires


  1. 1
    The Middle Finger
    5.6
    Alpine · Trad