Undercling

Undercling is a 1-star route that would be 2 stars if it were cleaned up a bit. The mungy start can be skipped completely to make this route a better, cleaner, and safer route. Were it totally cleaned up, the moves and positions could make it 3 stars, but that would take some effort. For now, think of it as a fun route with no crowds but a bit of dirt. You'll have it to yourself.

The initial slab has no protection, some lichen, and some wild rose bushes. It goes 5.6, and is slick when wet. If you fall off of that slab, the injury will probably be serious. This does not detract from the route if you simply don't do it. You can skip the optional and unprotected slabby beginning section and just walk up the hill left of the slab to reach a left-facing, open book. At the back of that lies a set of 2 short roofs. Step up and into the corner on a set of jammed rocks and flakes, then up into a roof. Jam and undercling up and right out of the roof, and turn the corner onto a lower angle set of cracks. Take this up to a slab with a tree in a crack. A belay can be built here with the tree and 2x red Aliens or purple Camalots. You can also sling this long and then head up and right onto a slab placing a black Alien or two in a seam above. There is some PG-13, but it is probably only 5.5. You arrive at the base of a second roof and corner, like the first but bigger and harder. A 1/2 driven blade piton lies next to a green and yellow Alien placement for the belay there.

From the belay, start off on P2, once again heading out to the right under a roof. This second pitch is going to be difficult/awkward for climbers below 5.10, just to get started, so starting pro matters. A grey X4 Xamalot is a great first piece, then the purple Camalot or red Alien again before switching to hand-sized gear. Jam and undercling for about 10' out and right to the flake wedged into the roof, and then head up on this with solid pinches and jams to turn the corner and intercept another crack that will take you to the top on more moderate terrain.

Cross the bridge to Broken Rock from Castle Rock. Before and along a small pullout on the right, a slab of rock comes down right to the road. At the far (East) end of this, a slightly inset section of this slab rises up and left for 50. This is the beginning of the route.

A rack with medium nuts and a set of cams from tiny to 3", with doubles in 1.25" and 2.5".