- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is another nice addition to Spirit Rock, which parallels 'Hocus Pocus' to the left for the most part. Pitch 1 is all bolted, while Pitch 2 is a mix of bolts and small gear. This route is mostly east facing and receives morning to afternoon sun before going into the shade later in the afternoon. In summer, it's best to do this one later in the day.
*Note
: this route requires either (2) 60 meter ropes
OR
(1) 80 meter rope to rap the route.
Pitch 1 (110'):
Step up onto the apron and friction to the first bolt (15'), following a shallow left facing corner that turns into a seam. Clip the next 2 bolts before reaching a series of narrow ledges. Pass the ledges to the 4th bolt. Move right then up from the 4th bolt. The real business starts at the 5th bolt (.10a). Be sure to put a runner on the 5th bolt. Move out right and work up a thin crack to a seam (be careful when using the thin flake left of the bolt....it flexes!). Continue up past the last 2 bolts (5.9) before reaching the 2-bolt ring anchor.
Pitch 2 (130'):
From the anchors, move out left and up. There's a small cam placement a body length above. Continue straight up to the first bolt then pass a section of patchy moss (tricky friction). Look for possible gear placements along the way between the first and second bolt. After reaching the second bolt, climb to a large ledge (know as the 'Smiley Ledge' when viewed at a distance) with large flakes leaning against the wall on the left side of the ledge. Climb up on these large flakes to reach a bolt. Traverse left to a right facing corner (good pro). Climb the corner to its apex and surmount the small roof to a bolt. Once at the bolt head up and right to a 2-bolt anchor, equipped with a quick link and a carabiner. Rap the route.
Location
This route can be found 20' left of 'Hocus Pocus'.
Protection
-
10 to 12 alpine draws
-
Pro to 2", emphasis on smaller cams
The second pitch upper section traverse left then back right. If runners aren't used, you'll have loads of rope drag!
Routes in Spirit Rock
- 2Whoop Dee Do5.10aSport