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Peak Mountain 3

Kitty's Back

FA Mark Anderson, 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Kitty's Back is a new, 13a, jug bash, roof climb... if only you didn't have to climb a 125' slab to get to it. The rock was a bit more solid, and the logistics not quite so difficult.

Climb

MacCavity

, 10a (or 5.9 according to the Mountain Project slab aficionados) to its anchor using all the tricks to keep rope drag to a minimum, back cleaning, lots of slings. From the anchor, make a hard right, and climb across 5.6 choss (passing the corner that "Top Cat" starts out of) to a ledge and a good stance. Stickclip the first bolt. A sling is nice for rope drag but adds to the risk of decking back on the ledge. Maybe some gear could be used here for protection while stickclipping the bolt. If you somehow fell, it wouldn't be good. A bolt would be pretty nice here even if you'd need to backclean it.

Alternatively you can use the first bolt on the 14a to the left to access the first bolt on this route.  Clip and go in direct on the first bolt of the 14a, then transfer the rope over to the first bolt of this route.  Lower back to the ledge and send.

After the logistics are straightened out, pull a challenging move to get established on the roof, then jug bash up creaking flakes and disintegrating footholds up to the top of the flake system. From here, the the angle lessens, the rock quality improves, and the crux hits a big move between good holds. After this, the climbing eases to the anchors.

Grade: it felt pretty low end 13a, basically a 3 bolt 12- up to a V5/6 boulder problem - probably somewhere between 12c - 13a.

Rope: I was able to get down from the top anchors with an 80m rope with about 15' of easy downclimbing. Use caution, and TIE A KNOT.

Beta from Mark:

https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/06/27/kittys-back-in-clear-creek/

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Location

Climb

MacCavity

to its anchors, and make a hard right. This is the right line of the two routes that start side by side.

Protection

18 bolts (4 on this extension) to the anchors and a stickclip, maybe a piece of gear or 2, lots of slings (at least 10), and a 80m rope (TIE A KNOT, & expect to downclimb).