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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown South face route

FA unknown
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Description

First Bolt is low, starts on a jug about 6 feet high, send for a left hand jug and from there on up enjoy the slopers and the less than favorable edges to the top!

(a chimney can be climbed on the east face after a short traverse if it beats you too badly and just want to top rope it. However you will runout 2 bolts, it is decent 5.10 climbing)

Ample ledges provide great seating for your friends to watch you struggle.

The crux is the upper head wall moving beyond the under-cling pocket in my opinion.

Location

Follow the trail from scorpion slab towards New Year's Rock, this route is in a small and cozy corner. Currently only south facing route on this rock. There's some chalk down low but none up high. the climb looks much easier than it is.

Protection

6 bolts to a chain anchor


Routes in New Year's Rock


  1. 1
    Unknown South face route
    5.12
    Sport