The Original Sin

This route is a free variation to the Aeolian Original Route. At sometimes this route can feel very bold, but overall it is very safe, and one of the top adventure routes in Red Rock. The crux is one boulder problem protected by a bolt, super chill. The rest of the route follows the Original Herbst line. There are a couple of dirty pitches but overall the good pitches make the climb very worth it!!Getting there- Hike past Intiwatana until you are below the Aeolian wall roof. If there is a fixed line, ascend it, if not belay up the mossy crack to the left.P1: 5.10d PG, Start below the roof, Climb some flakes and blocks to a bolted anchor (30ft) skip this anchor and climb the crack system into a chimney (the first moves off bolted anchor protects with a #2 DMM brassy) Climb the difficult chimney into a great crack with amazing rock until you are parallel with the bolt on the traverse. Anchor takes .5, .75, 1, 2, choose whateverP2: 5.12 a/b Traverse right and clip a bolt, pull off a v4ish boulder problem then traverse to the arete. The rest of the pitch is easy climbing (5.10- ish), however, it has some exciting runnouts, definitely R/PG-13. Once around the arete, clip a bolt with a double-length sling (makes the whip easier on your partner) climb the face about 40 ft to another bolt then another 30ft to an old 1/4 bolt and fixed piton, belay about 5 ft above the piton with a 3 and 4.P3: 5.10, This is a very interesting pitch, typical Mt. Wilson rock, but kind of fun. Climb up a thin flake to a really small crack, place some nuts/brassy, and climb the face to the right of the crack, reaching into place gear as you go; at one point I got a bomb black totem. Climb the crack system into a cool chimney with a fixed bong. Follow the crack system to Crotch ledge. You can belay in the boulders on the left with a blue and yellow totem, or place a couple of #2s in the flaring crack.P4: 5.9, Follow a wide crack up and left. Good dirty hand jams in the back. Move back and forth between climbing the crack and the face. Climb past a 1/4 bolt and continue up the face to a large cave. This pitch sucks if it's wet but pretty fun when it's dry.P5: 5.8 R, This is probably the coolest chimney you will ever climb, No gear for the entire pitch but it is a cruiser chim chim. It's good to have an 80m rope for this pitch, a 70 will probably make it, a 60 will require some simul climbing.P6: 5.9+, Climb up an off-width, this is where it is good to have a #6, traverse right to a ledge and gully system whenever possible. If you don't want to huck a #6 up the wall, you can avoid the offwidth by climbing a face into a sandy chimney that has a small tree at the bottom, but the off-width is better. belay below a short chimney.P7-8: 5.9, Back to good rock, climb a short chimney with two boulders at the top. At the end of the chimney, there is a sweet cave, if you have a headlamp it's really cool to look deep inside it. Climb another, really neat chimney and go up the gully system to a tree. I did these pitches by stretching out an 80m, but it can easily be broken up.P9-10: 3rd class to the summitdescent: typical Wilson, pick your poison

Double Rack to 2, one 3, one 4, optional 5 and 6. Stoppers and Brass nuts! An 80m rope is best but a 70 will do, a 60 requires a little bit of chimney simul climbing but very doable.