Magic Mushroom

I had the pleasure of climbing this with Troy Johnson and Tracy Dorton in of all times, August 1984

This was as I was told an early ascent. We spent 4 nights on the wall. This route is longer and more sustained than the Shield. The route is in some deep flaring awkward corners with lots of left handed nailing as I recall. The Mushroom is a classic, fun climbing, deluxe bivey ledges and the most direct route through the Shield headwall, with no crowds.

First Ascent: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 05/72

VI, 5.10;A4 31 pitches

First free ascent, Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong

5:14 28 pitches

The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.Plan on a fun 5 days and bring lots of water.

See Topo Photo.

Gear:

.50 tri cam for hole on old A-4 section to Chicken head ledge. this is a must.

1 ea Peckers (3 total)

2 ea Wire Rivet Hangers

2 ea Keyhole Rivet Hangers

6 Knifeblades

2 ea Angles 1/2", 5/8"

2 ea Sawed Angles 1/2"-1 1/2"

10 Black Diamond Lost Arrow Pitons (mostly #2 and #3)

2 ea Hooks (3 total)

2 Narrow Cam Hooks

1 Wide Cam Hook

1 set of Black Diamond Stoppers

1 set of DMM Peenuts

1-2 sets of Offset Brass Nuts

2-3 sets of Aliens

2 sets of Offset Aliens

3 ea of Black Diamond Camalots #0.75-3

1 ea Black Diamond Camalots #4-6

1 60m x 10.5 mm Lead Rope

1 60m x 8mm Static Rope

12 Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws

40 extra Lightweight Biners

12 Shoulder Length Slings