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Peak Mountain 3

Art Nouveau

FA Stuart and Bret Ruckman, 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Prior to the recent addition of bolts, this had to be one of the biggest sandbags in BCC. The Ruckmans' 1998 guide rates it 11a trad, and it humbled me badly before it was bolted. Even after climbing it with the bolts in place, I cannot bring myself to call it 11a (I'm fairly sure it would spank, for example, the Hellgate 11a climber).

For the original line, climb the obvious overhanging seam/thin crack past three bolts, then traverse left along the crack below the fourth bolt to chains shared with

Color Me Wild

. A direct finish of sorts is to continue up past the fourth bolt to more hard climbing protected by two bolts and ending at a higher set of chains with fixed biners. Probably 11b whether you do the original or direct finish, but the latter offers a titch more hard climbing.

Location

This is the next bolted line maybe 15 feet right and slightly uphill of

Color Me Wild.

It starts by gaining and climbing the obvious right-leaning seam system.

Protection

Draws for 4 bolts and chain anchors for the original finish. For the direct finish, take draws for 6 bolts and a few freebies for the chains in case the fixers have been stolen.