Dane's Death Route

As mentioned in the description for the mountain, we scrambled up the slab on 3rd and 4th class terrain on the south face of the mountain to the right of the humongous right facing corner. Upon reaching the top of the slab where the face gets steeper, there are a number of ways to go. The scramble has some loose rock, so beware.Our first roped pitch was further to the east from where we scrambled up. We found a gully/wide chimney with a couple of areas with 5.5-5.6 moves. Once again, there was a lot of loose rock, so beware. After 100 feet or so, we set up a belay about 100 feet directly below a wonderful looking black varnish hand crack.The scariest part of the climb was from the belay for the next 40-60 feet. The rock was loose and there was no opportunity for pro of any kind. The climbing is probably in the 5.4-5.5 range, but trusting holds was the crux. Once reaching the final headwall with the varnish off-width hand crack, one may either climb the hand crack at about 5.6-5.7 (there are lots of jugs and one is not required to jam at all), or may escape over to climber's left for an easy scramble to top out on the summit. 

South side of the mountain, trending up and to the right of the huge right facing corner which is obvious from the base and during the approach in the wash. 

Rack of singles but if you intend to climb the wonderful but short hand crack at the top, a #4 and/or a #5 would be welcome if you want to sew it up.