- Edit (TBD)
Description
This Yacht Rock inspired route is a short but burly tips lieback corner. Difficulty is very finger size dependent, but it's somewhere in the 11+ to 12 range. It is stacks more difficult to lead and than TR, as usual, so don't get too uppity about the grade after your partner puts the rope up and you flash it on the dull end. There is a somewhat unnecessary bolt that I placed to get past some subsequently cleaned choss, and it's a little bit of a reachy clip. Sorry. I left it because empty holes are ugly and it is nice to have for the overhanging finishing moves instead of yet another itty-bitty cam cam.
2 stars because the route is short, but its good fun and nice rock.
Location
A ways left of where the approach hits the cliff, past Skraps, there's a ledge above the trail. Slings and Arrows and Divide and Conquer are up there. Walk to the left end of that ledge, 50 feet past D and C, to a broken down pillar and a large corner. Scramble up the pillar into the corner. Voila. Plaque.
Protection
My rack exactly: 1 Purple C3, 5 Purple Metolius or equivalent, 1 Red C3, 1 .4 C4, 1 Orange Master Cam, QD. Confused? Yeah, me, too. You basically need one teensy cam, 5 or so .4 inch (purple Metolius), and a few bigger pieces to bury in the finger pods so you can feel better about all those tiny cams between you and the ground. Actually, a medium-large nut would protect the weird mantally move at 2/3rds height like a boss.
Routes in Sparks Wall
- 12What a Fool Believes5.12-Trad