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Peak Mountain 3

Topcat

FA Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Cyrena Goodrich (1988)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ascend less-than-vertical nothingness using shallow dishes. Pull a small lip by means of an undercling pinch and minuscule feet to obtain the first bolt. Inch up using crimps, mantles, and smears until you are finally able to rock up into a casual stance. After the second bolt the climbing eases in difficulty but remains thoughtful.

While low-angle slab climbing repulses the current generation of climbers, I personally love the style and thus immensely enjoyed this line. Delicately dancing up a sheet of glass has a beauty and tranquility missing from the popular thuggish routes.

Location

Topcat is the rightmost route on Wind Wall. It is the rightmost of the three routes on the upper tier. It is ten feet right of Threshold, which follows the crack.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors. The bolts are marked with the initials 'ER'.

While the first bolt is not very high, reaching it requires a bit of gumption. A stick clip may make you and your belayer more comfortable. I opted not to use one.

This route can be setup as a toprope. Care should be used when accessing the anchors as one must venture across sloping scree. It is probably best to transfer in from the anchors of Threshold.