- Edit (TBD)
Description
One for the Ladies is an excellent back country wall climb. The first four pitches were aided, while the remaining pitches are excellent free pitches! Somewhat similar to the south face of Washington column, easy aid to excellent free climbing with a nice ledge. Named in honor of the strong women in our lives.
Strong morning sun goes into the shade a little after 1pm.
P1) start up an OW to a bolt and face climb the thin flake to the right passing four bolts before climbing up a right leaning crack to a two bolt anchor. 150ft 5.8 C1 some dirt.
P2) move left off the anchor up the center discontinuous and once dirty cracks before moving right to a fixed pin. Lower around the corner to the belay ledge just past a bolt. A1/C2 150 ft
P3) up into the overhanging corner and under the roof arriving at a two bolt belay. Steep! C1+ 150ft
P4) out the roof up a short bolt ladder to a flake(mind the blocks inside) then moving right to a stance with finger a crack. 80ft
P5) Up the crack thru a roof and stem up past some stacked blocks ending at a ledge. We cat napped here. 5.9 100ft (might be possible to link 4+5)
P6) 4am Crack-up the offwidth/chimney to a plush ledge. Wish we napped here.100ft 5.9
P7) up into “the Womb” exiting at the top to a stance. 5.9 180ft fantastic climbing.
P8) continue up the corner exiting out a heroic roof onto the head wall, questing plus traversing up to a bolt and belaying on a floating flake of mystery. Look down! 5.8 180ft
P9) leave the floating mystery flake and traverse right on a golden knobby sidewalk past two bolts intersecting a short crack and up to a two bolt anchor. 5.4 plus silly awesome sky walking 100ft ( you can traverse right into Astro gil from here)
P10) spot the bolt above the belay and climb to it from the right side.(or head right onto Astro Gil) Slab on up subtle features weaving your way past 7 bolts to a ledge. 120 feet 5.7
P11) 5th class up and left past a tree up easy slabs. 150 feet
A brief 3rd class exit on to the summit slabs
Location
On the south east face in between Time Warp and Astro Gil. Scramble down on the west side of the dome until at the “nose” of tehipite dome. Here a large pillar has the time warp chimney on the west side and the wall of ages Pitch 19 on the east side. The start of the route is down hill to the east about 300 feet and starts at the next big corner. A sea of bushes guards the base.
Protection
x2 beaks, micros- 5”, x1 6”, cam hook, 000c3, stoppers, 8 quick draws
Routes in Tehipite Dome
- 9One for the Ladies5.8Trad · Aid