Prison, Babe

This is the obvious left-leaning corner system in the center of the wall, look for a scary white plate suspended near the bottom of the corner. Dennis Jackson asked me for a name to this route and I hadn't yet come up with one for his last Falcon guidebook, so there are citations that refer to the route as "unnamed".

I spent a fair bit of time prying on the plate with a crowbar, and then banging on it with a 4# mallet, couldn't get most of it to go. With that said, I still wouldn't put gear in it, but pulling on it should be fine (use judgement). But you can climb through it at easier than 5.8, Id think. There is good gear above and below it. My FA attempt was originally ground-up, but I was stopped at the crux section by buckets of gravel and dirt falling into my face as I tried to use the hand crack. I came down, hiked around, and rapped in from the top. I evacuated a huge amount of debris from this upper section of crack, which turned out to be fairly larger than hand size (the #4 or 5 section), and I was ultimately happy with how well it cleaned and climbed.

There is a possibility that sections of this route had been tried in the past, but if so, they certainly didn't use the same exit. They could have aided left and finished-out via a separate, left crack system. Its plausible, but again, not likely.

George Perkins : "This crack's crux is harder than it looks, making it another good one on the Diablo trad circuit. The flake is scary, but at least the climbing is easy at this point. Climb up to this flake, place pro behind. Above is a nice left-facing hand crack; then you'll reach an overhanging flared slot through a roof with a good hand crack in the back. This is the crux, and even with good hand jams, it's harder than it looks, but only a few moves of this tricky section. Sustained hand cracks lead to the anchor at the rim. Pro is great, after you pass the big hollow flake. "

Obvious left facing corner system. starts on ledge just next to "Running with the Devil". 

Bring a double rack to #3, with a 4 or 5 for the crux section up high.