- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1. This route starts with
Eagle's Beak
. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when
Eagles's Beak
moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under
Sea Biscuit
), which leads to a set of anchors for
Sea Biscuit
. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.
Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.
P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.
Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for
Neighsayer
via two, 30m rappels.
Location
This is two routes uphill and to the right of
Tijuana Donkey Show
.
TDS
has a bolt about 40 feet up. See the photo under
Eagle's Beak
.
Protection
Variable rack from about 1/2 inch to a #3 Camalot. Extra thin hands, and hands for the upper belay.
Routes in Horseshead
- 11Funky Gold Patina5.10dSport · Trad