- Edit (TBD)
Description
Better, and more devious, than it looks. Climb up the right-rising crack/notch, make an awkward move into a tiny alcove, then - rather than climbing through the awkward, greasy crack - make committing but easy moves up and right, onto the steep bulge forming the right side of the alcove. There's a right-rising small overhang serrated by several thin cracks, use these for gear, then make an interesting move back left to regain the wide, left-rising crack system (thus bypassing the nasty section of crack). Weave up crack systems to exit at a large birch tree.
Location
Downhill (right) of the Little Gem Diner Wall, near the base of a dirt scree cone. Time Trials begins to the left, at an obvious, ground-level, left-rising crack. Shantyclear begins in the chunky, right-leaning notch just left of a dirty class 3 gully. Descend via 3rd class ramp downhill (climber's right).
Protection
Standard Adk. Trad Rack.
Routes in Main Cliff
- 18Shantyclear5.5Tr · Trad