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Peak Mountain 3

Wanderlust

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Description

P1: 10+. Wandering. Four bolts of interesting slab climbing traverse right. Then go up, following knobs and chicken heads to another bolt. Continue up and over an overlap trending left and then back right following the good holds. Ends in a 2 bolt anchor. An incredible pitch that felt a bit run out at times to me.

P2: 5.9. Load up some gear in a crack and then head up and left to a bolt (slightly runout) then surmount the roof heading up and right following better holds and easier climbing to another bolted anchor.

P3: 5.5 Easy climbing up jugs to a 2 bolt anchor.

Upon reaching the top of the third pitch, we expected to find easy climbing up two more pitches to the top, however, it looked neither obvious nor easy. Perhaps one climbs up through steeper cracks or traverses right on knobs? With darkness impending we decided to rap back to the base, leaving bail biners at the top of p3. Rapping pitch 3 is only possible with an 80m rope or longer.

Location

Locate four bolts traversing right across a large slab. Begin by climbing a short right facing flake to the first bolt.

Protection

Primarily bolts and knob slings on the three pitches we climbed, however gear up to 3" is needed in places.


Routes in North Face Left Side


  1. 1
    Wanderlust
    5.10+
    Trad