- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pre-clipping the first 2 bolts is recommended. Start at the same flake as "
Shiny Dog
," but move up left past first 2 bolts to a big manufactured jug & 3rd bolt. Move right to a tips lieback hold (shared with "
Shiny Dog
") & gain a sloping shelf (12b). The first ascent managed to climb straight up, past 3rd & 4th bolt, onto the shelf & rated the climb 5.12d, but I have never seen anyone other than Chris go this way.
Rest up on the shelf & climb the overhung dihedral with the crux past the last bolt. Bob D'Antonio's
Boulder Canyon
guidebook says climb the arete. This is incorrect. You climb the small dihedral with the right hand slapping the arete two or three times. Gain an undercling below the right side of a small roof (
Meteor Rhoadblock
goes out the left side) & clip the anchor above. A final 5.12a sequence liebacks around the right side of the roof to a jug right of the anchor.
As for the manufactured jug, it was actually a replacement hold for a jug that pulled off. It is possible to do the climb without making the bottom half of the route a bit harder.
Location
This is located between "
Meteor Rhoadblock
" and "
Shiny Dog
."
Protection
7 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.
Routes in Main Crag
- 8Super Bon Bon5.12b/cSport