The Free Grand Traverse

This is a high-quality route that is certainly worth doing. Expect a bit more lichen than

D7

, but the cracks that are just as good (just not as polished yet).

The free climbing history of this route is somewhat convoluted. Consult Bernard Gillett’s excellent guidebook if interested. Bernard free climbed the majority of this route, but his toprope inspection of the headwall cracks revealed rotten and unprotectable rock above Table Ledge.

With Bernard’s recommendation, Ryan Montoya and I rappelled into the headwall and cleaned the next crack system to the left (and just right of

Eroica

). We found solid rock, great climbing, and a nice traverse over to the top of the original line (which has good rock at the top). The next day we sent the route in its entirety.

P1. There are three options. See the photo. 1a) original route, 10c roof, a vegetated crack. 1b) this is the route we took: A-frame roof with a bolt, stiff move off the deck (~10a), and trend right, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse. 1c) start in a left-facing corner at the left side of the

D1

pillar. Make a rising leftward traverse (5.9). Belay at some tat.

P2. Climb the excellent corner with good pro. There’s some lichen near the top, but it’s not too bad. Belay where the

Casual Route

traverse joins the crack system, 5.11.

P3-P4. Climb the

Casual Route

to

Yellow Wall

bivy ledge, 5.8.

P5. Climb the slot pitch of the

Casual Route

, and combine this into a traverse ~40 feet right (pass the belay for

Yellow Wall

headwall and a fixed pin) to belay at a very large but detached block. This is the same belay as after the crux pitch of

Eroica

, 5.10-.

P6. Climb thoughtfully above the belay and straight up the crack (not to the left, that’s

Eroica

). Climb the excellent crack to a section of crux face climbing that uses holds out right and stems to the left. I left a couple of specific fixed wires in this section, but you’ll want to place a few more. Continue to a belay stance in some dark rock. This pitch is pretty long and continuous (~50m).

The belay requires 2x #2 Camalot OR 1 x #2 and 1 x #1. See the photo.

5.11+.

P7. The “A3 Traverse” - similar in nature but with better protection than the A4 Traverse on the

Yellow Wall

. Climb above the belay, and then traverse up and right on good rock (a little runout ~5.8) to the base of some flakes. A seam to the left of the first one takes RPs, and the flakes take wires and small cams (fixed wire at the top of the second). Make a committing and fantastic move right into the left-facing corner, and jam to the top of the wall (mostly hands, other pro options), 5.11-.

We recommend the 5.9 start (see the photo).

A healthy selection of RPs, small and medium wires, double cams from green C3 through #3 Camalot.