Sick For Sleeping

This route provides a nice step up in difficulty as a warm-up from the adjacent 11a,

Hippopotamus

. The crux is at the bottom of the steep, upper section after the easy approach bit, so be ready to crank immediately! Stage your belay on the ground where the

Undertow

approach ledge begins.

Scramble up the approach ledge and before the ledge traverses left, while you are still to the right of the big tree look up for the first bolt just above. It's only 5.5 at the bulge, but at least you have a bolt between you and your belayer 30 feet below. Move up 5.0- climbing to the steep stuff above and the second bolt (2nd bolt is a long, fat one in case you notice it is the only thing between you and a 50 foot ground fall...easy to clip). The initial moves up the steep rock are mid 5.11. Then pumpy but slightly easier climbing past two more bolts leads to a rest below the final bulge. It is super fun, 5.11 crimping up the mini-tufa final bulge and the crux reaching the final jug.

This is currently the right most route, uphill on the crag. Stage on the ground by the

Undertow

approach ledge.

Seven bolts plus chain anchors.

Per

Mark E Dixon

: 7 bolts plus anchors.