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Peak Mountain 3

Karmic Trace

FA Ben Folsom, August 10th 2008
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UPDATED 

Description

Strenuous moves in a dihedral lead to a knifeblade in a horizontal. Another big move leads to good cracks above. Where the crack kind of runs out, continue straight up the face past gear placements in horizontals. A final mantle onto a slab and a good horizontal crack to set up a gear belay.

To descend, and easy scramble right (about 5.4) from the natural anchor will lead you to a set of chains on top of Celestial Ascension. Rappel from there.

Location

To the right of Swamp Cooler is Painted Bird, which has a bolt and pin at a 3 foot roof. To the right of that is "Tainted Word" which has a fixed knifeblade above a small roof. Just to the right of that is a clean dihedral with a fixed knifeblade in a horizontal above the end of the dihedral. This is "Karmic Trace". The next route to the right is "Devil Tree".

Protection

A set of cams from small to #2 camalot size. Be sure to save two or three for the belay. The horizontal crack for the belay is varied in size.