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Peak Mountain 3

Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind

FA Andy Weinmann & Eric Merideth 08JUN2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin at a short left-facing corner with a small tree at the top of the corner. Climb the corner and the outside face on the right, passing the small tree and step to a ledge. Continue up to a pine tree and pass behind it on its left side (inside). Continue up past a short curving corner (gear), passing several old fixed pitons and ring pins to a good stance on a horizontal. Head straight up to the bolt that protects the final series of small ledges to the Lower Broadway Ledge. There is some loose or hollow sounding rock, but the protection is good.

You will intersect Lower Broadway Ledge right at the base of the Lower Broadway Chimney. You can make a belay on the tree there.

It's a really fun line that will get better with more traffic.

Location

Starts on a ledge below Lower Broadway. Touch And Go and A Touch Too Much also start on this ledge. You can access it by:

A. Climb P1 of Backstage Pass. At the top of the pitch locate the large pine tree with numerous woodpecker holes just a little way further up the ledge system. The climb starts just behind this tree.

B. Rappel in from a set of rap rings on Lower Broadway. These are at the top of Touch And Go/A Touch Too Much. On Lower Broadway, walk north on the ledge till you reach the Lower Broadway Chimney. Step around the exposed corner (great handholds on the face) and move just past the two pine trees.

C. Climb Lost And Found. This will get you up to the ledge as well.

Protection

One bolt. Standard Seneca rack. A couple long runners are helpful for slinging the two trees.