The Good Bad and Dirty

This is a classic Castlewood hand and finger crack that has seen many aid ascents. Approach via the Cave Trail, then turn left at the base of the cliff, pass under a large block leaning against the cliff and locate the obvious hand crack about 15 feet right of the "cave." This nice line has three cruxes with the last 10d crux at the very top--a memorable climb.

Start on a block to the right of the line, then move up under a small roof for the first crux. A #1 Friend can be placed below the roof in a pocket, and if you reach high, the #0 Friend (or TCU) can be fiddled into the thin crack. An old fixed pin has since pulled out (since the guidebook publishing), but the micro cam was pretty solid (technology, baby). Crank this first roof (9) using face holds up to a large ledge. An old 1/4" bolt is on the ledge for extra security. The second crux (9+) comes in moving off the ledge. The rock is undercut so no good footholds help you get established with a good jam. Anyway, jam (thin hands) to get off the ledge, then move into the meaty part of the route--a nice hand crack. Use a #3 and #4 Friend through this section until you're established below the final roof. A decent armbar rest is possible while you shake out the pump from the jamming below. A good #3 Friend can be placed high in this roof to protect the final moves, which are exciting and exposed.

The anchor on top can be made in a thin crack with small-medium stoppers and a #9 hex. Downclimb via a 4th class ledge system to the North.

Some medium stoppers and friends in the following sizes: 0, 1, 3 (two of these), and a 4.