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Peak Mountain 3

Walk on the Wild Side

FA Kevin Murray, Mark Rolofson, 1977
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Description

This is an amazingly splitter hand/fist crack line up the pinnacle. I am keeping details short here to keep it adventurous - I'd recommend checking out Phil Wortmann's excellent guidebook for the beta. The grades are as per our experience.

P1: 5.10c. Climb a thin finger crack/layback into splitter hands to a stance.

P2. 10c. Go up to the roof, and traverse hard left under it on wide hands/fists. Pop around onto the wild side, and move up and to a ledge.

P3: 10b. Traverse further left and slightly down into the next splitter system, and take this hand/fist crack with a move of offwidth through two steep roofs to a ledge.

P4: 9/10+. Go up the obvious hand crack (9) or the thin crack to the right (10+)into a V-slot, then finish up easier ground to boulders.

Descent: rap from slings at the boulders, squeeze south through the gap behind the main pinnacle, then two bolted raps to the ground (a single 60m rope is ok).

Location

It is on the Bigger Bagger Pinnacle.

Protection

A standard doubles rack, plus we found triples in #3 and 2 #4s to be useful.