Renaissance

Keep in mind that the 3 star rating above is relative to the area. Nonetheless, this is the best route I have done so far at the Wood. This is a perfect before-work climb (as are the adjacent climbs), with direct sun on the climb as soon as the sun breaks over the east rim.

Park at the Falls trailhead lot. The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, and go.

The first bolt can be clipped from a great pocket/lieback just off the starting ledge, but the bad fall potential at this spot might make one lean towards a stick clip. Follow two more bolts past two short bouldery sections with good ledge rests, and then tackle the final two bolts on the headwall via a tricky sequence or two. There are two good bolts on top.

This will be the first bolted route to the right of Marijuana (or the third bolted route from the left).

5 QDs plus something for the two-bolt anchor.