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Peak Mountain 3

Ground Zero

FA Alan Watts, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Easy moves lead to a thin, powerful, and somewhat awkward crux about 15 feet off the ground. After the crux the climbing eases to 5.10. Traverse left on a horizontal about 5/6 of the way up, bypass the original anchors and finish on the upper portion of Quasar to chain anchors.

Though rated 10d in the Watts guide, I thought the crux was more difficult than any 11b I have climbed in the Lower. There is evidence that a hold has recently (after the FA?) broken off at the crux.

Location

Begin in the seam just right of Quasar.

Protection

Very small to medium stoppers and cams to a #1 camalot or equivalent provide excellent pro. I placed a crucial (and bomber) #4 DMM wallnut at the crux.