The Great Northwest Dihedral

This is a variation on the normal Spire 4 route. Instead of climbing up the back to the 3/4 gully, belay off the bolts for the approach pitch. Climb around the corner on the opposite side of the gully to a sloping ledge with an old piton in a crack. Set a belay and climb the dihedral to a chimney and under the broken spire. You can either set your own belay on gear or downclimb to the anchors above the wormhole. The last pitch is the same as the traditional route.

Start at the base of the Spire 4 tree or climb the 3/4 gully. Three single rope rappels gets you to the base of the Spire 4 tree.

Standard rack and a #4 or #5 Camalot for the dihedral. Take some single and double length slings to sling horns. Fixed anchors atop the approach pitch, optional anchors atop the wormhole, and anchors at the top.