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Peak Mountain 3

The Heartbreaker

FA Jeff Parmenter
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starting standing with your right hand on a bad crimp sidepull and your left hand in the right side of a big obvious sloping slot. Climb right over the bad landing, making a couple big cruxy bump moves to another rectangular slot, then make a couple more moves which eventually lead to doing an awesome meatwrap move to the upper side of the lip, finishing with a "heartbreakingly" tough mantle. Very morpho - this route may feel like V9 if you're shorter.

This cool hidden gem is apparently in the top 5 list of best V7s in Leavenworth according to Sheridan's guidebook, but I didn't think it's

that

good. I'm just giving it four stars due to its purity and aesthetic even if it isn't that popular.

Low start is V9 and there exist multiple variations on the boulder, with the normal V7 line being the "safest" - but the landing is still bad.

Location

Big triangle boulder. Find it by turning right slightly down the slope when hiking up to the main Mad Meadows boulders. Turn right in that flat meadow area into a faint trail heading straight to Leavenworth a couple minutes before the main boulders.

Protection

The landing is pretty rough and you would need to protect the uneven boulders under the mantle area. 5 pads will make you very comfortable.


Routes in Heartbreaker Boulder


  1. 1
    The Heartbreaker
    V7
    Bouldering