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Peak Mountain 3

Direct Southeast

FA Peter Oslund and John Horn 5/1965; FFA Steve Hong, Mark Smedley and Karin Budding 8/1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Direct Southeast is another great 5.11 finger crack at the Tower. Pitch one is small fingers with intricate lie-backing, trust a foot and escape to the arete or stay in the crack the whole way (90 ft). Pitch two continues up the sustained finger crack with a defined crux at about 100 ft, the climbing then becomes easier and opens up to a nice hand crack (130 ft).

Location

Rappel Bon Homme Variation

Protection

Good protection, small stoppers and cams, hand size pieces for the top of pitch two, a couple fixed pins on each pitch, bolted anchors for pitch one, pitch two requires a #2, #3, and #4 camalot for an anchor.