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Description
A very enjoyable route with a first pitch on loose, fractured rock that is nevertheless pretty fun.
P1
(5.9, 70') An intimidating 5.9 on really poor rock; it is, regardless, quite fun. The start is overhanging with crumbly footholds; getting off the ground is probably the hardest part. Even crumblier rock awaits, and getting up and over the horn partway up the pitch requires some effort as well. Eventually you reach much better quality quartzite and a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.
P2
(5.9, 70') Climb on beautiful, hard quartzite following the bolt line to the left (the route to the right comes quite close to this one at the belay, and it is possible to use the line to the right as the second pitch if desired). Solid, positive holds abound until the upper, smoother face when the holds get a little scarcer and less positive, requiring more in the way of sidepulls. The route goes around the left side of the roof right at the end; the last bolt is at the left side of the overhang.
Location
Located on a tall buttress on the north side of the canyon, at the west end, just before the terrain starts sloping down to the west. Find the line of bolts that starts behind a small tree on the east side of the buttress. There are two bolted lines visible to this routes right; there is also one bolted route to its left but that line isnt visible from the start of this route.
Protection
P1 9 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors.
P2 8 bolts, chain anchors.